Paint Levels

Choosing the level of paintwork is one of the most important decisions when purchasing a painted resin figurine. It determines the visual appearance, the time required to complete the piece, the final price, the level of detail, the richness of the effects, and how the piece stands out in a display case.

At Atelier Figurines, every painted figurine is crafted by hand. A collectible figurine isn’t simply “colored”: it is prepared, primed, highlighted, shaded, detailed, retouched, and protected. Depending on the level chosen, the finished look can range from a clean, crisp paint job to a much more elaborate piece, featuring textures, contrasts, material effects, and a more striking visual atmosphere.

Atelier Figurines is a division of the WEB FIGURINE brand, specializing in collectible resin figurines, busts, dioramas, large-scale models, and custom-painted pieces. This page helps you understand the different levels of painting so you can choose the finish that best suits your budget, your collection, and your expectations.

Why offer several levels of painting?

Not all figurines require the same amount of work. A small, simple piece, an expressive bust, a 1/6-scale figure, a 1/4-scale statue, a warrior clad in armor, a creature with textured skin, or a diorama filled with accessories do not all require the same amount of paint, precision, and workshop time.

Offering multiple levels of painting allows us to cater to a variety of needs. Some collectors want a neatly painted figure that’s ready to display, without seeking an extremely detailed finish. Others want a more spectacular piece, with deep shadows, intricate highlights, and effects depicting skin, metal, leather, fabric, blood, dust, magic, or weathering.

The level of painting therefore allows you to tailor your order to your specific needs. Are you looking for a beautiful decorative piece? A centerpiece in a display case? A standout piece for a themed collection? A realistic bust? A high-contrast fantasy character? A dark fantasy monster with organic textures? The right level of paintwork depends on what you really expect from the figure.

A paint finish isn’t just about color

Two figurines can have the same primary colors and yet look very different. The difference lies in the number of steps, the smoothness of the transitions, the precision of the details, the contrast between light and shadow, the rendering of textures, and the time spent on each area.

For example, a red cape can simply be painted red with a dark shadow and a light highlight. It can also be rendered using multiple shades of red, glazes, gradual lightening, areas of wear, dust on the bottom of the fabric, and light directed according to the character’s posture. The subject is the same, but the level of detail completely changes how the piece is perceived.

Steps Common to All Painted Figures

No matter what level you choose, painting a miniature requires a solid foundation. Higher levels involve more time, finer details, and special effects, but a miniature must always be properly prepared before painting.

Preparing the figurine

Preparation involves inspecting the parts, cleaning the resin if necessary, removing any visible minor manufacturing marks, checking the joints, making any necessary corrections, and preparing the surface for painting. This step is essential, because even a beautiful paint job cannot make up for poor preparation.

On a resin figurine, you may notice very faint lines, small support points, seams, or areas that need adjustment. These elements are a normal part of the process for a custom-made collectible.

Underlayment

The primer is the first layer that helps the paint adhere. It helps the paint stick better to the figurine and makes the details more visible. It can be light, dark, or somewhere in between, depending on the desired style.

A dark undercoat helps create a more dramatic atmosphere. A light undercoat brings out bright colors. A gray undercoat often helps maintain a neutral balance before applying color.

Primary Colors

The primary colors define the figure’s identity: skin, clothing, armor, hair, weapons, base, accessories, and background elements. At this stage, the figure begins to take shape, but it often still lacks depth.

A high-quality painting is about more than just applying color. It must create depth. That is the role of shadows, highlights, and transitions.

Shadows, Light, and Details

Shadows add depth. Highlights draw the eye. Details reinforce the room’s character. This is where the quality of the painting really becomes apparent.

A face, for example, can be simply painted with a skin tone and a few shadows. It can also be given subtle shading on the cheeks, nose, lips, eyelids, under-eye circles, beard, wrinkles, and highlights. On a large scale, such as 1/6 or 1/4, these differences become very noticeable.

Level 1: Clean, legible writing

Level 1 corresponds to clean, legible, and effective painting. It results in a finished, painted, cohesive miniature that is ready for display, without requiring a very high level of detail on every element.

This level is well-suited for customers who want a hand-painted piece but wish to stay within a more affordable budget. The finish is clean, the colors are applied neatly, the main forms are highlighted, and the figure has a good overall appearance.

What Level 1 Covers

Level 1 includes basic preparation, a primer coat, the main colors, basic shading, simple highlights, painting large areas, and a suitable final protective coating.

Important details are painted in, but without overdoing complex effects. The transitions remain straightforward. The goal is to create a figure that is pleasing to the eye, looks clean on display, and has good overall consistency.

Real-world example: Level 1 fantasy warrior

For a fantasy warrior, Level 1 might include a clean base coat, simple metal armor, a colorful cape, a clearly defined weapon, a few shadows in the recesses, and highlights on the main edges. The result looks good from a distance and gives the impression of a finished miniature, without pushing every texture to its absolute limit.

The cape will have a primary color, a shadow, and a highlight. The armor will be clearly defined, with a simple metallic effect. The face will be painted, but without much detail regarding skin tones or facial expressions.

Who should choose Level 1?

Level 1 is a good choice if you want a painted figure but aren’t aiming for a competition-quality piece. It’s also suitable for large collections, supporting characters, smaller-scale figures, or customers who want a clean finish without too many options.

Level 2: Detailed Painting for Collectible Figures

Level 2 is the most balanced choice for a collectible figurine. It offers a more refined finish than Level 1, with better contrast, smoother transitions, greater detail, and a richer rendering of textures.

This level is ideal for figurines intended for display in a showcase, busts, main characters, and pieces from the fantasy, science fiction, historical, manga, dark fantasy, and role-playing and wargame genres.

Level 2 focuses on giving the figure character. Key areas receive more attention: the face, skin, eyes, armor, cape, base, visible textures, and main accessories.

What Level 2 Covers

Level 2 involves more careful preparation, an appropriate undercoat, refined primary colors, deeper shadows, gradual highlights, better separation of materials, sharper details, and more meticulous treatment of the base.

The transitions are smoother. The textures begin to stand out: metal, leather, fabric, skin, wood, stone, fur, bone, horn, or magic. The viewer gains a better sense of the character’s materials and atmosphere.

Real-life example: Level 2 vampire bust

For a vampire bust, Level 2 might include pale skin with cool shadows, darker lips, more expressive eyes, hair with subtle shading, dark clothing with several areas of light, and an intricately detailed base to enhance the gothic atmosphere.

The skin won’t just be white or gray: it can have slightly bluish or purplish hues. The eyes will be more detailed. Clothing will be able to distinguish between fabric, leather, and metal. The result will be more vivid and dramatic than Level 1.

Real-world example: historical soldier at Level 2

On a historical soldier figure, Level 2 can help better distinguish the different materials: worn fabric, brown leather, tarnished metal, dust on the boots, shadows in the folds, and a slightly weathered face. The result is a more believable figure that looks well-worn.

This level is particularly useful for historical miniatures, as uniforms, equipment, and accessories look much more realistic when shadows, dirt, and textures are rendered more accurately.

Who should choose Level 2?

Level 2 is recommended if you want a beautiful collectible figurine that’s easy to see up close and from a distance, without having to go through an extremely time-consuming process. It’s often the best choice for a piece you really want to showcase in a display case.

Level 3: Advanced Painting with Textures and Atmosphere

Level 3 involves more advanced painting, designed to give the figure a strong personality. The work is no longer limited to making the piece clean and detailed; it seeks to create a mood, a sense of light, realistic textures, and a more striking visual presence.

This level is suitable for large pieces, expressive busts, main characters, creatures, dioramas, 1/6-scale or 1/4-scale figures, and collectors who want a standout piece in their collection.

Level 3 takes more time, as each key area is worked on with a specific goal in mind. The face, skin, metals, fabrics, weapons, bases, and special effects receive more attention.

What Level 3 Covers

Level 3 involves meticulous preparation, more subtle transitions, stronger contrasts, a more thorough treatment of materials, textural effects, additional nuances, a more assertive color palette, and a base that is better integrated into the overall composition.

Effects may include aged metal, cracked leather, rust, subtle bloodstains, dust, battle marks, magical lighting effects, skin variations, tattoos, scars, veins, dirt, or a more dramatic treatment of the eyes.

Real-world example: Level 3 science fiction warrior

For a science-fiction warrior, Level 3 might include armor with wear along the edges, light impact marks, cold metal, glowing areas, colored optics, an energy weapon, and a technical base. The paint job can suggest that the character is returning from battle or moving through an industrial setting.

Instead of armor that’s simply gray or black, we get a richer surface: micro-scratches, highlights on the edges, shadows in the panels, dust on the legs, signs of wear, and small touches of color to guide the eye.

Real-world example: a Level 3 dark fantasy creature

When sculpting a dark fantasy creature, Level 3 allows you to work on the skin using several shades: dark red, purple, brown, gray, sickly green, or gradated flesh tones. The claws can feature bony transitions, the horns can be striated, the mouth can look wetter, and the base can enhance the dark atmosphere.

This level is very useful for monsters, demons, the undead, mythological creatures, and horror characters, as it helps make organic textures look more convincing.

Who should choose Level 3?

Level 3 is recommended if you want a figure that immediately catches the eye. It’s a good choice for a centerpiece, a large-scale piece, a detailed bust, a figure meant to be displayed in a showcase, or a model whose theme calls for a truly immersive setting.

Level 4: Highly Detailed Window Painting

Level 4 represents the most elaborate work offered for a custom-painted figurine. The goal is to create a highly detailed display piece featuring rich paintwork, smooth transitions, a variety of textures, a clear artistic vision, and a highly personalized finish tailored to the subject.

This level takes much more time than the others. It is particularly well-suited for large 1/4-scale figures, busts, complex dioramas, major collectibles, custom projects, and figures intended to be the centerpiece of a collection.

Level 4 isn’t just more detailed. It’s more intentional. The lighting, colors, textures, and base should all tell a story. The figurine becomes a scene, not just a painted character.

What Level 4 Covers

Level 4 may involve very detailed work on faces, eyes, skin, textures, metals, fabrics, hair, accessories, special effects, the base, and the overall atmosphere. The transitions take longer to complete. There are more nuances. Contrasts are better controlled.

Depending on the scene, this level may also include directional lighting, a warm or cool atmosphere, a cinematic look, advanced aging effects, simple freehand drawings, tattoos, markings, magical effects, or more sophisticated color harmony.

The term “freehand” refers to a design painted by hand without any carved relief to guide the brush. For example: a symbol on a cloak, a design on a shield, a tribal mark, a tattoo, or a decoration on a piece of clothing.

Real-life example: Level 4 pin-up

On a collectible pin-up figure, Level 4 may include more subtle rendering of the skin: slight redness, subtle shading on the cheeks, knees, elbows, and shoulders, soft shadows, satiny highlights, more deeply rendered hair, carefully applied makeup, textured clothing, and a harmonized base.

The difference is most noticeable in the transitions. The skin doesn’t look flat. The contours are softer, the highlights are better placed, and the overall effect is more natural and elegant.

Real-world example: Level 4 fantasy diorama

In a fantasy diorama, Level 4 allows you to work on multiple characters, a setting, and effects involving stone, earth, wood, metal, magic, dust, and light. The base becomes an essential part of the storytelling.

For example, a scene featuring a knight facing off against a creature might feature a cool lighting atmosphere on the monster, warmer lighting on the hero, weathered metal, signs of battle, a dirty floor, and a visual composition that naturally guides the eye toward the focal point of the scene.

Who should choose Level 4?

Level 4 is recommended if you’re looking for a highly detailed piece that will take center stage in your collection. This is the best choice for a large-scale figure, an expressive bust, a diorama, a gift for a special occasion, or a figurine you want to keep as a centerpiece.

Comparison of Paint Levels

To put it simply, as the level of detail in a painting increases, so do the time required, the level of detail, the nuances, and the visual richness.

Level 1: Clean painting, clear colors, simple shadows, a finished and effective result.

Level 2: Detailed painting, better contrast, more distinct textures, and a good balance for a collectible figurine.

Level 3: Advanced painting, textures, atmosphere, material effects, and a more striking display.

Level 4: Highly refined painting, subtle transitions, advanced attention to detail, artistic atmosphere, a centerpiece for any collection.

How do you choose the right level based on the type of figurine?

The appropriate level depends on the type of figure, its scale, its role in your collection, and the desired effect. A very simple figure can work perfectly well at level 1 or 2. A large, highly detailed piece often warrants a level 3 or 4, since larger surfaces reveal transitions, materials, and any imperfections more clearly.

For a 1/9-scale figurine

Level 1/9 offers a good balance between size, detail, and display space. Level 1 may be sufficient for a secondary piece or a large collection. Level 2 is often the best choice for a beautiful collectible figurine. Level 3 becomes appealing if the sculpture features rich textures, an expressive face, or an intricately designed base.

For a 1/6-scale figure

Level 1/6 makes details more visible. Faces, clothing, weapons, and accessories benefit from more detailed work. Level 2 provides a solid foundation. Level 3 is recommended for a major piece. Level 4 is a good choice if you want a highly detailed display.

For a 1/4-scale figurine

1/4 scale is a large scale. It really brings everything into focus: volumes, transitions, skin, fabrics, metals, and details. For a 1/4-scale painted figurine, level 3 or 4 is often the most appropriate, especially if the piece is meant to be a centerpiece of your collection.

For a bust

A bust draws attention to the face, the eyes, the skin, the hair, the clothing near the face, and the main textures. Level 2 can produce a good result, but Level 3 or 4 creates a much more powerful expression.

For a diorama

A diorama depicts a scene. The level of detail in the painting should therefore take into account the figures, the setting, the atmosphere, and the overall impact. Level 3 is often recommended, and Level 4 becomes appropriate if you want a true collector’s piece with a strong atmosphere.

Why does the price vary depending on the paint finish?

The price of a painted figurine depends mainly on the amount of time spent on it. More detailed painting requires more steps, more coats, more touch-ups, more details, and more precision.

A Level 1 artist can focus on clean and efficient rendering. A Level 4 artist may spend much more time on a single face, a single cape, or a single suit of armor. Transitions must be smoother, details sharper, and the overall atmosphere more finely controlled.

The price therefore reflects the artist’s labor, the time spent in the studio, the complexity of the model, the size of the figurine, and the level of finish required. The larger and more detailed a piece is, the more time the painting process takes.

Natural Variations in Handcrafted Paint

Each painted figurine is handmade. Even when a sample painting is shown on a product page, the final piece may vary slightly in color, contrast, texture, or style.

These variations are not flaws. They are part of the artisanal character of a hand-painted figurine. Two pieces painted based on the same model may have a slightly different expression, a slightly warmer highlight, a slightly cooler shadow, or a more pronounced texture.

Atelier Figurines takes care to maintain consistency with the requested style, while respecting the handcrafted nature of the work. A painted figurine is not an industrial product where every piece is exactly the same as the next—it is a collectible piece crafted individually.

Examples of options based on your project

If you’re buying your first painted figurine, Level 2 is often the best choice. It offers a detailed, attractive finish that’s perfect for display, without requiring the most time-consuming level.

If you want a central room at 1/4 scale, level 3 or 4 is recommended. A large room highlights transitions more clearly and requires more detailed work.

You are ordering a secondary character: Level 1 or 2 may be sufficient, depending on your visual requirements.

If you’re ordering an expressive bust, Level 3 is often a good choice, since the face and the eyes are the focal point of the piece.

You’re commissioning a monster or creature: Levels 3 or 4 allow you to better refine organic textures, skin, claws, horns, teeth, dark effects, and gory details.

When you order a collectible pin-up, levels 3 or 4 result in smoother skin, more elegant transitions, more refined makeup, and an overall more striking appearance.

You’re ordering a science fiction figurine: Level 3 is a good choice for armor, lighting, weathering effects, optics, energy weapons, and technical bases.

Conclusion: Choose a paint grade that’s right for your collection

The best quality paint isn’t always the most expensive. The right choice depends on your budget, the size of the figurine, its importance in your collection, and the look you’re going for.

For a simple or secondary figurine, a Level 1 or 2 may be sufficient. For a display piece, an expressive bust, a large-scale piece, a detailed creature, or a diorama, a Level 3 or 4 will produce a more striking, richer, and visually enduring result.

Atelier Figurines allows you to choose a painting style suited to your project: a clean, effective finish; a detailed paint job; an advanced stylized look; or a highly detailed piece for the discerning collector.